Camino Portuguese Day 1: Porto to Vilarinho
Camino de Santiago Camino Portuguese Portugal

Camino Portuguese Day 1: The Perilous Path From Porto To Vilarinho

The first stage of the Camino Portuguese Central Route takes pilgrims from the Porto Cathedral to the small town of Vilarinho. This 18 mile stretch is mostly sidewalks and cobblestone with no natural pathways.

The first stage of the Camino Portuguese Central Route takes pilgrims from the Porto Cathedral to the small town of Vilarinho. This 18 mile stretch is considered by many to be the least scenic and most perilous on the Camino Portuguese. In my research leading up to this walk, I had read many accounts from fellow pilgrims, bloggers, and guide books that it’s best to skip this stage. Many noted the lack of natural pathways and abundance of foot pounding cobblestone and asphalt. The most prominent warnings were in regards to the narrow sidewalks and one lane roads without a shoulder. We decided to walk this stage anyway, and had agreed that we would stop and take a taxi if any of the road stretches felt too dangerous to cover with our 2-year old son.

Camino Portuguese Day 1: Porto to Vilarinho
Departing Porto

Stage Map And Overview

  • Distance: 18 miles
  • Elevation Gain: 1125 ft
  • Minimum Elevation: 207 ft
  • Maximum Elevation: 468 ft
  • Time: 6-9 hours
  • Stage Overview: Many pilgrims recommend to skip this route, and after walking it, I have to agree. Things start out in the city of Porto, and are followed by a rather mundane walk through busy streets that are indistinguishable. Be ready for a lot of cobblestone, ashpalt, and busy shoulderless roads.

Camino Portuguese Day 1: Oporto to Vilarinho


Camino Portuguese Day 1: Porto to Vilarinho

Our day started bright and early with a 6:30 AM wake up. The weather report indicated that we would be walking through 3-days of rain to kick off our Camino Portuguese. The only stretch of respite appeared to be a six hour window on this first day out of Porto. We decided we needed to get an early start to take advantage of the window of dry weather.

Despite the arduous path we knew we’d be crossing, the excitement of beginning a new adventure had us brimming with positive energy. After months of planning and weeks of anticipation, we were finally set to embark on the Camino Portuguese. With a 500-mile pilgrimage already under my belt, I was looking forward to watching Julia and Owen experience the magic of the Camino for the first time.

The Camino Portuguese starts out at the Porto Cathedral. We had spent quite a bit of time at the cathedral the day before, and decided to get moving right away. We were glad to have previously scoped out the Camino route, as it’s easy to miss a way sign in such a big city. As we passed the beautiful azulejo tiles on the side of Igreja do Carmo, we were drawn by our noses through the doors of a nearby bakery. The smell of fresh bread and coffee is something I’ve found to be irresistible ever since my walk of the Camino Frances in 2012. I’m glad my wife and son feel the same way.

Camino Portuguese Day 1: Porto to Vilarinho
Azulejo Tiles of Igreja do Carmo
Camino Portuguese Day 1: Porto to Vilarinho
Baked Goods for Breakfast

After eating breakfast, we made our way out of Porto on what felt like a never ending conveyor belt or narrow cobblestone sidewalks and city streets. There really isn’t much to say about the first 10 miles of walking, because it was all pretty much the same.

After our first 11 miles on the day, we started to reach the outer limits of Porto’s urban sprawl on our way past Mosteiró. The path forward was starting to feel much more like a Camino and much less like an urban commute.

Camino Portuguese Day 1: Porto to Vilarinho

Camino Portuguese Day 1: Porto to Vilarinho

We continued pushing on towards Vilarinho and were pleasantly surprised by how the weather was holding up. The early morning weather report called for rain by noon, but the skies were still blue as we approached the middle of the day.

Camino Portuguese Day 1: Porto to Vilarinho

Camino Portuguese Day 1: Porto to Vilarinho

As we approached the final few miles into Vilarinho, the rain finally caught up with us. This would have been fine on it’s own, but the streets on this section were narrow, had no shoulder, and provided blind turn after blind turn.

Camino Portuguese Day 1: Porto to Vilarinho

Camino Portuguese Day 1: Porto to Vilarinho

We finally made it to Vilarinho just as the skies really started to open up. I was feeling very fortunate to have pre-booked our accommodations, which meant we didn’t have to go looking for a place to stay. When I walked the Camino Frances, I didn’t pre-book anything until I reached the final 100km (60 miles). For this family trip of the Camino Portuguese, I decided to have everything pre-booked before we arrived. Since I was hiking with my wife and 2-year old son on a fixed vacation window, I wanted to make sure everything would go smoothly and that we would have a comfortable place to sleep each night. I ended up working with Pilgrim.es and they took care of all of the bookings for us. In Vilarinho, they had us booked in a private room at the very comfortable Albergue Casa da Laura.

Camino Portuguese Day 1: Porto to Vilarinho

Camino Portuguese Day 1: Porto to Vilarinho

After checking in at Casa da Laura and resting for a bit, we started feeling pretty hungry. Luckily, there was a restaurant with a pilgrims menu right next door called Café C.J.S. We had a nice dinner and then picked up a few snacks at the local market before packing it in for the night. We had another big day ahead of us, and the weather report was calling for more heavy rain.

Camino Portuguese Day 1: Porto to Vilarinho


Share This Post!

Camino Portuguese Day 1: Porto to Vilarinho

I'm Drew, creator of Trail to Peak. Trail to Peak brings content to life on the web through breath-taking photography and captivating video. I launched Trail to Peak in 2014 with a goal to inspire readers to get outside and enjoy the great outdoors. I have traveled to 19 countries, walked Camino de Santiago, hiked the John Muir Trail, trekked through the Andes of Peru, and am constantly seeking new adventures in my home state of California. Joining me on my weekly adventures is my partner, Julia, our son, Owen, and our two goldendoodles, Isla and Lilly.

6 comments on “Camino Portuguese Day 1: The Perilous Path From Porto To Vilarinho

  1. Good for you guys for doing this stage despite its challenges! You’re smart to have pre-booked accommodations for this trip. I remember times when Alex was young where I’d failed to do this and both he and my hubby weren’t happy about searching for a place after a long day.

    • I’ll bet! That’s what I was afraid of. If we arrived to a town and Owen was hungry and ready for a nap, I would have regretted it.

  2. Tom Berg

    Casa de Laura put out some Port wine and cookies for me on my stay in March. Much appreciated after making that trek in constant rain.

  3. Given how precarious the exit from Porto was, have you heard whether the coastal route was an improvement? My girlfriend and I will be walking this September. Bom Caminho

    • I’ve heard the Coastal Route is much better in this regard. My uncle walked that route last year and really enjoyed it.

Leave a Reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

%d bloggers like this: