A Guide To Backpacking Havasupai Falls

Drew Robinson

7 years ago

Updated for changes in 2019!

In November of 2016 I completed a trip that was high on my bucket, a backpacking adventure to Havasupai Falls. Havasupai Falls is one of those backpacking trips that will stick with you long after you’ve returned home. The shimmering turquoise waters, the powerful pounding of waterfalls, and a journey deep into the wondrous Grand Canyon makes for journey like few on earth. In a previous post, I put together my 20 favorite photos from my trip to Havasupai Falls.

The problem with Havasupai Falls is that it can seem like a bucket list mirage to many. The permits are virtually impossible to come by, which can make planning for this trip very difficult. In this guide, I will clearly lay out a ‘start to finish’ guide for those wishing to backpack to Havasupai Falls.

I. Obtaining The Ever Elusive Havasupai Falls Permit

The most difficult part about planning a Havasupai Falls trip is obtaining a permit. Much like the John Muir Trail, the number of aspiring visitors far outnumbers the quantity of available permits. For 2019, permits for Havasupai open on February 1st 2019 8:00 AM, and are sure to disappear quickly. When permits are available, you can book online or by phone. If no permits are available, you can check back and call in periodically to see if anyone has cancelled. Be flexible!! Permits are very hard to come by, so don’t be picky. Take the dates that are available.

Booking Permits Online

The ability to book permits online was new for 2017 via sunrise reservations. The online process has switched over to https://www.havasupaireservations.com/ for 2018 so make sure to visit the right site this year. Once (if) you get a permit, you’ll be able to select a campsite on your selected dates on a first come first served basis.

Reservations used to be tied to one person. For 2018, you can add a second person that is authorized to use the permit should the primary holder not show up. Reservations are non-refundable and non-transferrable.

Booking Permits By Phone Is No Longer Allowed!

Reservation Cost And Pricing

The price of reservations has gone up quite a bit for 2019. You will see the per-person breakdown below. This includes all necessary permits, fees, and taxes.

ALL campground reservations are 3 Nights / 4 Days.

$100 per person per weekday night
$125 per person per weekend night (Friday/Saturday/Sunday nights)

These prices include all necessary permits, fees, and taxes.

This means that a 3 Night / 4 Day stay will be a total of between $300 and $375 per person (depending upon how many weekend nights are included).

Havasupai Reservation Policies For 2019

All reservations are 100% non-refundable and non-transferable.
Reservation Amendment Fee: $100.00 (altering any reservations)
Packing fee: $120.00 + 10% tax= $132.00 (per animal, one-way)
2-Mile Pack Fee: $85.00 + 10% tax = $93.50 (per animal, one-way)
$1000 fines for cliff jumping, littering, drugs/alcohol, flying drones

It has been brought to my attention that the Havasupai horses are not treated well and poorly cared for. For this reason, I strongly suggest you do not use the packing services.

Seasonal Considerations And Best Times To Hike

Be mindful of the seasons and the time of year you’ll be visiting Havasupai. In the warmer months you’ll be able to enjoy the water, but you’ll have to deal with a scorching hot hike and the prevalence of bugs. In the cooler months, you won’t be able to enjoy the water, but you will have very pleasant hiking conditions. Flooding is a major risk on this hike, make sure to follow the weather reports!

Day Hiking Without A Permit

There are signs at Hualapai Hilltop that state no day hiking is allowed. It’s easy to see why, as most people are not capable of hiking 20 miles with all of the uphill coming in the second half of the hike. As someone that has hiked the Grand Canyon Rim to Rim and Rim to Rim to Rim, I can attest to the level of difficulty. Unless you’re in tip top shape and have completed something like this before, do not try to hike this in one day!

II. Getting To Havasupai Falls via Hualapai Hilltop

In order to hike to Havasupai Falls, you have to first drive to the trailhead at Hualapai Hilltop. Getting to Hualapai Hilltop is a long drive regardless of where you’re coming from.
If you’re driving from west of Arizona, head east on HWY 40 towards Kingman AZ and take Route 66 towards Peach Springs. East of Peach Springs you’ll see Indian Road 18. Take this until the road terminates at Hualapai Hilltop.
If you’re coming from the east, head west on HWY 40 past Flagstaff until you reach Seligman. From Seligman, join Route 66 and follow the instructions above.
Click here for directions on Google Maps

III. Gear and Food Considerations

One of the most important parts of planning a backpacking trip to Havasupai Falls is making sure you pack the right gear. The importance of planning and packing is amplified if you intend on bringing your children along with you. In this gear guide, I’ll provide a comprehensive gear list for backpackers that will include information on packs, clothing, footwear, shelter, sleeping, electronics, and food. I’ll also include a designated section for those planning to bring a child along.

Click here to see my packing list for Havasupai Falls

IV. Hiking To Supai From Hualapai Hilltop

Before visitors can catch a glimpse of the falls at Havasupai, an 8 mile hike to the town of Supai is required just to check in and pick up a reserved permit. From Supai, the trail continues for another two miles past Navajo, Havasu, Mooney Falls, and the designated camping area. You’ll descend 2000 feet from Hualapai Hilltop down into the Canyon to Supai. You’ll then descend another 400 feet to Mooney Falls.

Make sure to check out my detailed post on how to hike from Hualapai Hilltop to Supai Village. In this post I’ll provide all of the tools you need to complete this hike, including data, photos, GPX, a trail guide, and details on picking up your permit from the Supai Visitor Center. I’ll also include information on eating at the Supai Grill.

Trail Distances

8 mi from Hualapi Hilltop to Supai
2 mi from Supai to the campground
.5 mi from the campground to Mooney Falls
8 miles from Mooney Falls to the Colorado River

If you’re not feeling up to hiking, you can book a helicopter ride on a Monday, Thursday, Friday, and Sunday, if the weather permits. The ticket price varies, and allocation is based on a first come first served basis. Tribe members take priority. You can also hire a pack mule for $121 each way with a 10% tax. For mules going INTO Supai, you must make the pack mule reservations at least one week in advance through the camping office by calling (928) 448-2121. For pack mules going OUT OF Supai, you only need to book one day before. The limit for each mule is 4 bags and 130 lbs.

V. Exploring Havasupai Falls And Camping At The Havasu Falls Campground

Once you’ve completed your hike to Supai Village from Hualapai Hilltop, you can continue on towards the falls and the Havasu Campsite. On this hike you see Navajo Falls, Havasu Falls, and Mooney Falls. You’ll also walk past the numerous campsite options. Make sure to read my post on this section of the hike for GPX tracks, hiking data, a detailed trail report, and lots of photos.

Make sure you bring proper footwear if you plan on hiking down to the base of Mooney Falls. The trail down is treacherous and not for those with a fear of heights. I cover this section of the hike in detail in a separate post.

Once you’ve explored and visited the falls, make your way back to your campsite for an evening by the water. The campsite has potable water available for backpackers, with toilets close by as well. I cover this more in a dedicated post.

VI. Returning to Hualapai Hilltop By Foot Or By Air

Once you’ve reached the end of your Havasupai Falls visit, you’ll hike out the on the same route that you arrived. The difficult part here, is that the hike out is all uphill. Get your hiking legs ready!

VII. Supai Lodge

Another option for those wanting to see Havasupai Falls is to stay at the Supai Lodge.

The lodge can be reached at (928) 448-2111.
The lodge has 24 rooms with double beds.
Each room costs $145 for up to 4 people, and the standard 10% tax is assessed.
You must cancel reservations two weeks in advance for a full refund.
A $40 deposit per room, per night is required.
There is an entrance fee of $50 per person